And yet... here we are, months later.

	We left off last time with the transmission dropped, the crossmember rewelded, the new clutch slave installed and everything ready to go in with the fancy HF transmission jack.  It went together relatively smoothly. Not pictured: pressure bleeding didn't help, still wouldn't disconnect the clutch enough to let me put it in gear with the car running.
So I had a thought: the clutch pedal needs more throw and should be more in line with the brake pedal.  To fix this, I need the rod to be longer. Here's the old connection between the pedal and the clutch master, and the new one.

I pulled it all back apart and bought a remote bleeder kit, and another clutch slave, and a clutch master. (more spoilers, because I took no pictures: as much as dropping the transmission sucks, the clutch master is so much worse because there is no visibility and no access.).  I also took no pictures of dropping and reinstalling because it was becoming routine.

Somewhere in there I had a situation where I put the vacuum bleeder on it and couldn't hold a vacuum even with the bleeder closed - needed to put teflon tape on the bleeder to get any sort of vacuum, and even then it was an unending stream of bubbles - needed to teflon the other side of the remote setup too.

I pressure bled.  I vacuum bled.  I bled until I bled.  I never could get enough movement to disconnect the clutch enough to shift into gear. And then it got worse: the pedal flopped around with no resistance at all.
	Time to drop the tranny again.  Let's do it right this time: Step 1: disconnect the driveshaft.
Step 2: Disconnect the exhaust.
	Unhook the crossmember
Drop the exhaust
	.. Then you can remove the crossmember
and start unhooking the transmission:
	... oh. That stream of liquid is from the part of the slave that shouldn't have a stream of liquid.  I've apparently overextended the slave and ruined the seals.
I need to make an adjustable pedal stop.  The pedal itself is on a 3/8" wide bar... so let's start with a 3/8" spacer.  Weld to both sides..
.. make a U, then add a receptacle for a threaded rod.
	Looks roughly like this.
Here's how much travel I actually have at the clutch master pushrod:  All the way up
	.. and all the way down.
This is the adjustable stop, incorrectly installed (the U needs to be on the other side so I don't accidentally push too hard and pop this free)
	It certainly stops things though.
Firewall is sturdy enough.
	Did all this before removing the transmission (don't want to overextend the new one again). The quick disconnect had become worn enough that it didn't disconnect anymore.  Had to cut it off with a cutoff wheel.
... and I cut a little too far and nicked the hose.  Hoping that's not a sealing portion, to do the hose I'll have to remove the master again... and I don't want to do that.
	I bought a "Speed bleeder".  I bought the wrong size so this doesn't bolt up to my remote bleeder.
difference in bleeder sizes (which is not actually the issue; the pretty mount expects a -3AN line and the line I have is -4AN)
	Bought the -3AN to -4AN adapter I needed and installed this along with the transmission.
blah blah blah installation is the reverse of removal etc.  I'm becoming blasé about this process and I'm sure you are too. I did realize that the tranny jack could take some customization to make this work easier; there's some flat spots on the transmission with holes in them that could be used to locate the tranny on the jack and keep it from rotating.
	.. which brings us to present day. I've vacuum bled.  I've pressure bled. It actually feels like I've got good pedal. ... but the pedal no longer depresses far enough to trigger the clutch safety switch, which is way the hell up in there and not particularly adjustable.(Image is with pedal to the stop) I have a plan.  It's probably not a particularly good plan though.

Go back to the previous day (16 N)