derekf.com

12 Apr 2020
Core Support

I'm sick already of having wires strewn across the top of the engine.Let's do something about it!

I'm really more amused by this stamping than I should be.

Similarly, I'm much less concerned about this rust than I should be.

Cleaned up enough, epoxy primer time. Night falling here, so time to let it dry.

Wiper arm with new pin.

Pulled the pedal assembly out. The blue line is where it ends up in the car.

Not pictured: Cut it up. moved the switches, painted, put it back in (yeah, I should have taken pics).

Gloss "Majik" paint from Tractor Supply looks really nice. Wish I'd used gloss on the frame and maybe also the firewall.

Overall view.

With the switch mount moved, these two connectors will coexist.

Since most of the wiring that was on the floorboard is actually going to be behind the dash, it's been run up and over the column.

So hopefully my skill level is sufficient to weld this back together; I suspect that the AC control assembly is not going to be cheap.

So I asked the wrong question before I started: I'd asked if I was good enough to weld this. The correct question would have been whether it was a weldable material.

It is not.

Reinforcement via pop-rivets is an option though.

On to the cowl flap thing. This is a "rubberized fiber" gasket material, also pop-riveted to the housing. It flexes, it holds it close. Should work.

Pulled out my Optima battery.

After sitting on a shelf for fifteen years, the battery was producing about 4v. With 2a trickle charger for a couple of hours I got up to 6v; I don't know how well this is going to improve from there.

The cowl vent flapper thing was broken - but no reason I can't make a new one out of some 12ga or so steel with a bolt welded to it, and then pop-rivet that to the remaining arm. So I did.

Bolted up the cleaned and painted core support. It looks really nice.

Working my way through the wiring, here's the first real snag I've bounced off of. This is the switch that tells the cruise control that I've started to depress the clutch ("Clutch anticipate").

And this is the connector that looks like it should go with it - but obviously not the same.

More research required.

Also - I don't think I have enough pedal travel on the brakes. I don't know if it's the booster (which I'm pretty sure has been on this car for decades) or the new master (which apparently I didn't mention - it's a stock 69 Chevelle disc/disc msater) but I think it's about an inch, give or take, of travel and even with the little bench-bleed plugs in the ports it's not getting "firm". Investigation required. Also I don't know where the "proper" clevis pin is; the bolt I'm using has more slack than I'd prefer.

Engine harness partially installed. Cruise control partially installed. Need to get the inner fenders cleaned up and painted so I can mount things to them.

Need to figure out a mount for the PCM and for all three fuseboxes. Also need to figure out how to mark the "IP Fuse Box" so I can tell what fuse goes to what item - I won't have the little door that has it listed on the back.

Go back to the previous day (9 Apr 2020)

	I'm really more amused by this stamping than I should be.
Similarly, I'm much less concerned about this rust than I should be.
	Cleaned up enough, epoxy primer time. Night falling here, so time to let it dry.
Wiper arm with new pin.
	Pulled the pedal assembly out. The blue line is where it ends up in the car. Not pictured: Cut it up. moved the switches, painted, put it back in (yeah, I should have taken pics).
Gloss "Majik" paint from Tractor Supply looks really nice. Wish I'd used gloss on the frame and maybe also the firewall.
	Overall view.
With the switch mount moved, these two connectors will coexist.
	Since most of the wiring that was on the floorboard is actually going to be behind the dash, it's been run up and over the column.
So hopefully my skill level is sufficient to weld this back together; I suspect that the AC control assembly is not going to be cheap.
	So I asked the wrong question before I started: I'd asked if I was good enough to weld this. The correct question would have been whether it was a weldable material. It is not. Reinforcement via pop-rivets is an option though.
On to the cowl flap thing. This is a "rubberized fiber" gasket material, also pop-riveted to the housing. It flexes, it holds it close. Should work.
	Pulled out my Optima battery. After sitting on a shelf for fifteen years, the battery was producing about 4v. With 2a trickle charger for a couple of hours I got up to 6v; I don't know how well this is going to improve from there.
The cowl vent flapper thing was broken - but no reason I can't make a new one out of some 12ga or so steel with a bolt welded to it, and then pop-rivet that to the remaining arm. So I did.
	Bolted up the cleaned and painted core support. It looks really nice.
Working my way through the wiring, here's the first real snag I've bounced off of. This is the switch that tells the cruise control that I've started to depress the clutch ("Clutch anticipate").
	And this is the connector that looks like it should go with it - but obviously not the same. More research required.