derekf.com

14 Dec 2020
ECU Rewiring

Yeah... the goal here was not to spend weeks doing this.

I ended up removing every pin from the connectors and marking them (R46 for Red 46, etc.), shown here in progress.

The plan was to separate the red and the blue connector wires. Made a little tougher since some wires essentially connect the two.

Bundled.

Also needed to extend the coil/injector wires.

For validation - run along the outer edge of the inner fender

More lengthening and bundling.

Put it all back together after lengthening everything and it was still a horrible rats nest.

Back apart. Problem - in part - was because I just plugged all the red pins in and they ended up routed around each other, and same for the blue.

New plan: Plug in red 1-10, 41-50, 11-20, 51-60, etc. Wrap the quadrants separately. It's still a rat's nest but not nearly as bad.

Plug everything in, try to start the car: dead battery. Tries to spin the starter, no luck.

Bought a replacement battery charger.

Moving on to the next task: the AC box. I don't know what I'm trying to validate here beyond that it clears the engine, which I already knew.

Started wrapping the wires as the battery charged.

After a couple of days (trickle charge), the engine spun over, would start and then die pretty much immediately.

Did I miss a pin? There's no codes reported (beyond "MIL indicator not found", which I knew). The sensors all seem to be working per EFILive.

Maybe the battery still needs more charge.

Move on to the next task: the damaged parking light mounts. This is the better of the two.

And this is the worse.

Reconstructed the missing corner. Still need to weld on a #8 nut to finish this out, then re-sandblast and paint.

Same on the worse one - filled the holes, reconstructed, new mounts. Need to weld on the nuts, resandblast, and paint here too. Also may need to replace the bulb socket.

One of these housings has a broken bolt in one of the lens mounts; still need to handle that too.

I am not quite sure how this has occurred, but the epoxy primer and implement enable has flaked off here at the headlamp adjustor. The adjustor is also trying to pull through.

There is a difference between the "headlamp adjusting nuts" (skinny) and "license plate nuts" (thick). Replaced the skinny with the thick.

Apparently I have a leak at the oil pressure gauge. Tightened.

Minor concern that the PCV hose has a crimp. Maybe it's too long, or too short, or maybe it doesn't matter.

After going through all sorts of possible causes (VATS? Low voltage?) the answer became clear. If only I'd looked at this gauge that's still in a box on the cowl; it was correct.

Added fuel and the car started right up. No new codes so I guess I hooked everything up correctly.

Paint for the AC box. Guess next up is to mount the box and the ECU so I can put the fender on.

Go back to the previous day (2 Nov 20)

	Yeah... the goal here was not to spend weeks doing this.
I ended up removing every pin from the connectors and marking them (R46 for Red 46, etc.), shown here in progress.
	The plan was to separate the red and the blue connector wires. Made a little tougher since some wires essentially connect the two.
Bundled.
	Also needed to extend the coil/injector wires.
For validation - run along the outer edge of the inner fender
	More lengthening and bundling.
Put it all back together after lengthening everything and it was still a horrible rats nest. Back apart. Problem - in part - was because I just plugged all the red pins in and they ended up routed around each other, and same for the blue. New plan: Plug in red 1-10, 41-50, 11-20, 51-60, etc. Wrap the quadrants separately. It's still a rat's nest but not nearly as bad. Plug everything in, try to start the car: dead battery. Tries to spin the starter, no luck. Bought a replacement battery charger.
	Moving on to the next task: the AC box. I don't know what I'm trying to validate here beyond that it clears the engine, which I already knew.
Started wrapping the wires as the battery charged. After a couple of days (trickle charge), the engine spun over, would start and then die pretty much immediately. Did I miss a pin? There's no codes reported (beyond "MIL indicator not found", which I knew). The sensors all seem to be working per EFILive. Maybe the battery still needs more charge.
	Move on to the next task: the damaged parking light mounts. This is the better of the two.
And this is the worse.
	Reconstructed the missing corner. Still need to weld on a #8 nut to finish this out, then re-sandblast and paint.
Same on the worse one - filled the holes, reconstructed, new mounts. Need to weld on the nuts, resandblast, and paint here too. Also may need to replace the bulb socket. One of these housings has a broken bolt in one of the lens mounts; still need to handle that too.
	I am not quite sure how this has occurred, but the epoxy primer and implement enable has flaked off here at the headlamp adjustor. The adjustor is also trying to pull through.
There is a difference between the "headlamp adjusting nuts" (skinny) and "license plate nuts" (thick). Replaced the skinny with the thick.
	Apparently I have a leak at the oil pressure gauge. Tightened.
Minor concern that the PCV hose has a crimp. Maybe it's too long, or too short, or maybe it doesn't matter.
	After going through all sorts of possible causes (VATS? Low voltage?) the answer became clear. If only I'd looked at this gauge that's still in a box on the cowl; it was correct. Added fuel and the car started right up. No new codes so I guess I hooked everything up correctly.
Paint for the AC box. Guess next up is to mount the box and the ECU so I can put the fender on.