Apparently I was okay with going three months without an update. Many things were done.
Issue 1: Assembled the motor, pulled the fuel pump relay and spun the
motor to get a pre-lube on it.. no oil pressure.
(this whole oil
pressure saga can be read on
Pro-Touring if you like) |  |
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Assuming I did something wrong here. Also - a hearty "f. u." to the
folks at Holley who decided allen-head cap screws were the right thing to
attach their pickup to the pump - you Can Not get these out with the pan in
place.
Initial assumption is that I pinched or forgot the o-ring
here, so needed to disconnect the pickup. |
If you unbolt the motor mounts and lift with the hoist, you can get the
pan off. Or at least I could; your mounts and crossmember will
probably be in different places than mine. |  |
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Pickup was fine. Verified that there's no trash clogging the mesh on
the other end of the pickup, nope.
Bolted it back together, still no
pressure.
Poured a cup or so of oil directly into the driver's side
gallery to prime the pump, still no pressure. |
Swapped from the Escalade pump back to my pump that had been on the LS1,
still no pressure. |  |
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Suggestion came in: Raise the back of the car as high as possible and
overfill the oil.
Bam. We have pressure. |
I started with the whole vacuum leak thing, and waggled an unlit propane
torch around everyting while idling, looking for something to change.
Nothing did.
An initial capture with EFILive (because that's what I have) showed the IAC gradually moving to zero.
Here at 310 and I'm idling at about 814. |  |
 | 278, about
15 seconds later. RPM is up to 1500 |
IAC goes to zero, RPM goes up to 2200. |  |
 | It just
doesn't get better; RPM now up to 2486.
I could hear a sucking sound
as the IAC closed and the RPM went up. Don't know what that was about.
Did notice something odd though: my MAP was consistently 1.5PSI through
this (and also if I turned the car off). Let's troubleshoot that. |
Well, certainly looks like I didn't forget to put the MAP sensor in.
Step 1: Throw money at it (bought a new sensor). No change. |  |
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Verify the wires. Access is very limited. 12v is 12v and ground
is ground, no issues there. |
The signal wire, however, shows an open. |  |
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Oh. That would explain it.
Replaced the connector. |
Well, MAP values are more realistic now, at least.
I'm still at 2129 RPM and IAC at zero, but MAP is right.
So next up
is to validate the wires going to the IAC (sorry, you get no pics here).
Verified the four grounds for the ECU.
On the IAC: Pins
77, 78, and 79 to three of the four IAC pins showed between 0.7 and 0.9
ohms. Pin 76 (IAC Coil B High) didn't even have a wire in it.
Found that missing wire in pin 76, and now everything idles
correctly. The sucking sound is gone too.
Still running rich
though. |  |
There's not much left to do. Interior is next up, because almost
everything remaining is there.
Mounted the trim bit above the
glovebox. |  |
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Mounted door panels. |
Mounted the dash pad. You can see the holes for the light sensor
and the LED - I'd broken the LED trying to get it to fit (the paint closed
the hole up a little).
I had to resolder the LED to the carrier to
get it to work again, and also open up the hole a little. |  |
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I'd bought shoulder belts years ago when Pep Boys stopped selling parts and
put everything on clearance. Wasn't sure how I was going to mount
them, I ended up taking some 3/16" plate and drilling/tapping for the bolt,
and popriveting it in behind this bulge. The bulge is for the factory
shoulder harness so should be beefy enough. |
Headliner material goes on the sailpanels. |  |
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A bit of work on the wiring, trying to get it straight. It's still a
mess. |
Replaced the LEDs in the dash with some that are made for cars - they've
got arrows and check-engine lights and highbeam indicators and the like.
Looks like my dash ground and the BCM ground are not the same ground
though; the turn indicators are glowing. |  |
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Speedometer shows zero miles (which is accurate) |